Page 45 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Textile & Handloom Related Theory for Exercise 1.3.26
Shawl Weaving Artisan - Power Looms and Handlooms

Introduction of power loom

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• explain power loom
• list different parts of power loom.

Introduction: A power loom is an automated weaving 5 Harnesses (or heald frames)
machine that uses mechanical power, typically electricity • Function: Rectangular frames that hold multiple
or steam, to interlace threads into fabric. Unlike traditional heddles. The harnesses move up and down to
handlooms, which require manual labor, power looms raise or lower specific warp threads, creating the
significantly increase production speed, efficiency, and “shed.” The number of harnesses depends on the
consistency in textile manufacturing. Their invention complexity of the weave pattern.
marked a pivotal moment in the Industrial Revolution,
transforming the textile industry from a cottage-based 6 Shedding mechanism
system to factory-based mass production. (Fig 1) • Function: This mechanism controls the movement

Fig 1 of the harnesses to create the “shed” – the opening
between the raised and unraised warp threads.
Common methods include:
- Tappet shedding: For simple weave patterns
like plain, twill, and satin.
- Dobby shedding: For more complex patterns
with up to 24-28 harnesses.

- Jacquard shedding: For highly intricate and
large patterns, where individual warp threads
can be controlled (often using punch cards or
electronic control).

Parts of a power loom 7 Shuttle (in shuttle looms)
While the specific design can vary, the core components • Function: A boat-shaped device that carries the
of a power loom and their functions are generally as weft thread (or filling yarn) across the shed. The
follows: weft thread is wound onto a pirn (small bobbin)
inside the shuttle.
1 Warp beam (or weaver’s beam)
8 Weft insertion mechanism (in shuttleless looms)
• Function: This large cylinder located at the back
of the loom holds all the lengthwise threads, • Function: In modern power looms, shuttles are
known as warp threads (or ends), under tension. often replaced by more efficient methods to insert
It unwinds the warp sheet as the fabric is woven. the weft:
2 Whip roll / back rest - Rapier looms: Use rigid or flexible “rapiers” to
grasp and carry the weft yarn across.
• Function: A guide roller that directs the warp
threads from the warp beam towards the weaving - Projectile/gripper looms: Fire small grippers
area, helping to maintain even tension. (projectiles) carrying the weft across the shed.

3 Lease rods - Air-Jet looms: Use a blast of compressed air
to propel the weft yarn across.
• Function: These rods are positioned between
the whip roll and the heddles. They help separate - Water-Jet looms: Use a high-pressure water
alternate warp threads, ensuring they don’t tangle jet to propel the weft (suitable for hydrophobic
and facilitating the creation of the shed. fibers).
4 Heddles (or healds) 9 Reed (or batten)

• Function: These are individual wires or thin metal • Function: A comb-like structure with vertical wires
strips with an eye (hole) in the center. Each warp (dents) through which the warp threads pass.
thread passes through the eye of a heddle. After the weft thread is inserted, the reed swings
forward (this motion is called “beating-up”) to push
the newly inserted weft thread tightly against the
previously woven fabric (the “fell of the cloth”).
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